Ciasoon

Our family of 6(including 4 teenagers aged 12-17) loved Mahahual, described as a small fishing village on the Mayan Coast and understatement of the charm of this village. At the pier, where three ships docked that day, there is an American Mall-type reception plaza. Two pools (one a large free form pool with swim up bar), several shops, selling gems, to real estate to tattoos and massage. The beach was manicured and pleasant in this place and several thatched coverings were availale for shade. There were excursions offered via the cruise lines. Ample taxis circling for business. There was live music and folklore shows/dancing and plenty of open restaurants serving chips/salsa margaritas etc. All the imagination of the colors of Mexico. So what did WE do? I coached the family to climb the stairs that mimicked a ruin site, maybe Tulum, to get a feeling for what was the real Costa Maya environs. Our vista in all directions was low lying vegetation semi-dry, an unfamiliar type of wilderness. From high above the bustle of frenetic tourists, we could see that a white dusty path wound its way from the tourist reception plaza, along the water, and a few people were either coming or going that way. I knew that Mahajual was a short distance away and guessed that the white path was the way. As we left the plaza and started along he shore, two soldiers equipped with machine guns and on some sort of duty, sat off to the side in the shade, watching. It was a little creepy to see this, but it also gave us a feel for the rural reality of this undeveloped stretch of the Yucatan. Cancun being a 4 hour drive to the north (on what is deemed a new and modern highway)Belize City a 3 hour drive to the south. Chetumal, the capital of Quintano Roo (the Mexican State)is said to have an airport that can be accessed via Mexico City and still Chetumal is a couple of hours inland.

Now we were in mexico. The coast is of coral and debris. There were plastic jugs and pop bottles and more unmatched shoes, sneakers, slippers, woman's high heels, espadrilles, flip flops, even leather boots. There were pieces of nautical tools like frayed rope pieces, bailing buckets, fishnets and dry kye. The land was pristine even in its littered state. After a 20 minute walk we arrived at the outskirt of Mahahual. A homestead marks the edge of town where a woman sells coconut cold ones - for a 'dolar'. She retrieves the coconut and hacks it open right before your eyes with her efficient machete. She sells some embroidered cloths and some conches also. In the front of her house, which is mostly leaning boards and rustic fences, is the towns only pay phone standing alone at the edge of town.

Walking towards town we first pass a large sign posting the areas governance and something about the area being managed for preservation - at least that's what my limited Spanish clued. We then walked over fat ropes that laid across the road at 10 foot intervals. These served as speed bumps as taxis and cars raced into the village from the highway leading to the village. A Mexican Naval Post was manned with two soldiers here, again with machine guns and they watched as well. In fact, when my hat blew off in the breeze the soldier retrieved it for me.

There was quite a nice beach club as you approach the village that played music,had water toys and a pleasant beach. There were serenaders singing Mexican durges to the patrons while they sipped their beers and such. Horses were saddled off to the side and ready for a trek. There was snorkel gear to rent and the reef was clearly a great attraction.

We walked further into the town to find that the main dusty road was directly at the water's edge. There were several huts/homes? where something was for sale, either food fried, or beaded necklaces etc. The folk were very pleasant. Trying their English on us - calling to us, "Hey family- nice family, come buy my junk!" and they smiled and took great interest in my identical twin daughters. We made our way through Mahahual with 50$ worth of sombreros. That was enough buying. We sat on a beach and had drinks, while a young boy and girl offered us coconut brittle and fried plaintains that tasted like corn chips and fish. I traded some stickers and a package of pop rocks candies to them and they hoarded away the items, putting stickers on their faces and feeling the fizz and sweetness of the rocks. They were happy, at least for a while. Another boy came alongside them and demanded they share and the next we saw there was a fight and we left before our memory of their happy faces would be corrupted by violence. The second block off the main road was like a back alley. We did see a church set back and 'La Escuela' school, but there was no activity off the main road, so we kept to the crowd. We passed one building with the sounds of many children gleefully playing. The house was fenced in and a vendor explained that this was a school, although, there were no other indications. We would have loved to visit. We found our way back to the ship's pier and the livliness of the afternoon sundrenched, thirstquenching tourists, that were by then dancing and hooting away. What a contrast between the two, Mahahual and the Pier. Our boat was the last to leave that evening. Rumour was that a couple from one of the other ships missed their boat. Ordinarily you need to hire a boat or plane to catch up with you ship, but where would you do this in Mahahual? Our ship took the passengers on, since their destination was next Cozumel as ours was. I say this is a rumor, but I know this happened, since they were given the broken down cabin next to our that had been previously vacated. The couple were asking directions to the dining room that evening and we thought that odd, since it had been quite a few days already. In the morning we overheard the anxious passenger saying that he would figure everything out when they got back to the 'other' ship. (2 and 2)

I think the charm of Mahahual is that the villagers were genuinely glad to see us, to see anybody. It's all so new to them. I pray that this spirit of hospitality on their part remains as the visitations increase and they hopefully enjoy their businesses, while keeping their Mayan integrity.

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Costa Maya Shore Excursions

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