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 Dominica

William Schwartz
   Dominica is a third world island. One look at Roseau up close and you know that you are no longer on the beaten path. However, that very lack of sophistication and the undeveloped natural beauty of the island is what is attractive about Dominica. From my lead-in you already know that this island is not for everyone. The island is covered by a tropical rain forest. It receives 350 inches of rain a year. The showers come and they go in typical Caribbean fashion. Be prepared for rain in Dominica.  In doing my research for the trip I found Ken's Hinterland Adventure Tours. All of the tours involve some degree of hiking in the rainforest. Hiking in a rain forest is not my wife’s idea of a vacation so she chose to take the whale watching excursion offered by the ship. I, on the other hand, chose to go exploring. I took the Middleham Falls & Ti Tou Gorge tour. The information concerning this tour warns - “Persons should be in good physical condition to do this trip, good sneakers or hiking boots must be worn, Shorts and T Shirts are appropriate.” Now I can hike with the best of them, however, I had four coronary by-passes four years ago. I made sure I had my nitro pills with me and dressed appropriately for a hike. What I found was that the Middleham Falls tour is a mountain hike on a primitive path through the rain forest that seemed to be at least three (3) miles in length and rises 800 to 1000 feet. This is not a hike for the timid nor the inactive nor anyone with heart problems or likely to have heart problems!!! The hike requires you to climb over boulders, through creeks and streams, and find toe holds in tree roots as you raise or lower your body. The payoff is the magnificent forest you are hiking through with a beautiful 300+ foot waterfall at the end of the hike. I am sure Aaron, our guide, wondered if I was going to make it. I am glad that I took the hike but I would never have attempted it had I known what it involved. It was a wonderful experience but never again! The second portion of the tour was the Ti Tou Gorge. This involves a short hike. Then you take off anything you don't want to get wet (no changing room or lockers or anything of that sort - leave your valuables locked in the vehicle and wear your bathing suit). You swim in really cold water into what appears to be a cave in a rock wall with overhanging vegetation. Actually it is either a crack in the rock or a crevice eroded by the water. From the top of the water to the top of the gorge I'd estimated it to be 50 - 60 feet. The gorge is very narrow. It is a short swim into the gorge to the waterfall. There are actually two waterfalls - one behind the other. It is a really incredible site!  I highly recommend Ken's Hinterland Tours. They are dependable, knowledgeable and thorough. Our guide was Aaron who was a very good guide and was an expert at describing the vegetation. They do offer less active tours. My wife was highly complimentary of the whale watching tour. She gave high marks to the tour guides. They saw several whales and lots of porpoises.

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