Dominica
William Schwartz
Dominica is a third
world island. One look at Roseau up close and you know that you are no
longer on the beaten path. However, that very lack of sophistication and
the undeveloped natural beauty of the island is what is attractive about
Dominica. From my lead-in you already know that this island is not for
everyone. The island is covered by a tropical rain forest. It receives 350
inches of rain a year. The showers come and they go in typical Caribbean
fashion. Be prepared for rain in Dominica.
In doing my research
for the trip I found Ken's Hinterland Adventure Tours. All of the tours
involve some degree of hiking in the rainforest. Hiking in a rain forest
is not my wife’s idea of a vacation so she chose to take the whale
watching excursion offered by the ship. I, on the other hand, chose to go
exploring. I took the Middleham Falls & Ti Tou Gorge tour. The information
concerning this tour warns - “Persons should be in good physical condition
to do this trip, good sneakers or hiking boots must be worn, Shorts and T
Shirts are appropriate.” Now I can hike with the best of them, however, I
had four coronary by-passes four years ago. I made sure I had my nitro
pills with me and dressed appropriately for a hike. What I found was that
the Middleham Falls tour is a mountain hike on a primitive path through
the rain forest that seemed to be at least three (3) miles in length and
rises 800 to 1000 feet. This is not a hike for the timid nor the inactive
nor anyone with heart problems or likely to have heart problems!!! The
hike requires you to climb over boulders, through creeks and streams, and
find toe holds in tree roots as you raise or lower your body. The payoff
is the magnificent forest you are hiking through with a beautiful 300+
foot waterfall at the end of the hike. I am sure Aaron, our guide,
wondered if I was going to make it. I am glad that I took the hike but I
would never have attempted it had I known what it involved. It was a
wonderful experience but never again! The second portion of the tour was
the Ti Tou Gorge. This involves a short hike. Then you take off anything
you don't want to get wet (no changing room or lockers or anything of that
sort - leave your valuables locked in the vehicle and wear your bathing
suit). You swim in really cold water into what appears to be a cave in a
rock wall with overhanging vegetation. Actually it is either a crack in
the rock or a crevice eroded by the water. From the top of the water to
the top of the gorge I'd estimated it to be 50 - 60 feet. The gorge is
very narrow. It is a short swim into the gorge to the waterfall. There are
actually two waterfalls - one behind the other. It is a really incredible
site! I highly recommend Ken's Hinterland Tours. They are dependable,
knowledgeable and thorough. Our guide was Aaron who was a very good guide
and was an expert at describing the vegetation. They do offer less active
tours.
My wife was highly complimentary of the whale watching tour. She gave high
marks to the tour guides. They saw several whales and lots of porpoises.